Friday, March 14, 2014

Scraping Paint Across Stencils ... Again

I've shown this paint-scraping technique in earlier posts.  But this time I'm going into more detail about the overall process.
As I've said before, it's a "wet" version of the crayon-rubbing technique that's been around forever.  Instead of dry crayon (or other soft media such as pastel sticks) what is used, here, is acrylic paint. 
This time around I used liquid acrylics ... because it's good to experiment.  My conclusion is that tube acrylics, being thicker, work better. 

It depends on what results you're looking for, but for this particular technique I choose stencils with large openings, over stencils with intricate, fine details.
Below are the six 6"X6" stencils -- all by STENCILGIRL(TM)Products -- that I've chosen for this go-around:
Top row, L to R -- Trivet B, Mimosa, Curvie Lattice (by Mary Beth Shaw)
Bottom row, L to R -- two copies of Kaleid  and Intersections (by Wendy Aikin) 

Below:  One sheet of Lineco tissue has been taped securely over the stencils.   (More about this paper will be added farther below.)

Below:  Wet acrylic paint sits atop each column of stencils, ready to be scraped downward over the paper.

Above:  Over the tissue, I've spread the tools I could have used for the scraping.  The shower-wall-cleaning "squeegie" did a better job than the Princeton Wedge (altho the Wedge is great for other projects.)  The paint-covered credit card and the white rigid-plastic wedge (from a home supply store) have been used in the past; both work fine. 

Above:  Paint has been scraped down across the stencils; then more paint was added and scraped down in the same way, using slight pressure as the scraping tool was pulled downward.

Important tip:  If using Lineco tissue paper, remove the paper from the stencils as soon as you have finished the paint-scraping.  If the paint is allowed to dry first, the paper will stick to the stencils and will be more difficult to remove. 

I used both Lineco tissue and dry-wax deli paper for this project and found that the Lineco tissue will expand and form wrinkles as it is being scraped by the paint-loaded tool.  This does not happen with the deli paper.  However, the deli paper is more resistant to the paint, and needs to be scraped more than once, in experimentation to see which direction will work the best.
After the above paint had dried, I turned the tissue over and repeated the same technique on the other side of the same tissue.  I used different colors of paint on the second side so that, when finished, the paper would be printed on both sides, with non-matching prints.
After the paint had dried on the second side, the tissue paper was ready to be cut for use in collages, greeting card covers, scrapbooking, art journaling, etc.
Important note:  Doing both sides of the tissue makes the finished product stronger.  When cutting up the finished paper, make sure to check both sides before making the final cuts.  Sometimes you will like the "top" side of one section and the "bottom" side of another section of the printed paper.

Below:  Two 6"X6" greeting card covers made with these "scraped" papers as backgrounds; these backgrounds can be better seen if you click on the image to enlarge it: 
(The foreground on the upper card is digital clipart that I created back when I was doing that kind of thing; the foreground on the lower card is a stamped image made with a rubber stamp that I carved; I did the print on another sheet of my digital clipart, to give the butterfly a yellowish tone.) 

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